In the short time that Green Melody has been dishing out General Tso's protein and barbecued veggie duck, the modest-looking Chinese vegetarian restaurant has amassed something of a cult following.

“I must tell you about a lovely little place that may go under the radar,” one woman phoned to say. Not long afterward, a man called to voice fear that his new favorite restaurant would go kaput because of its out-of-the-way location (in a Jericho strip mall near the Whole Foods shopping center).

“Green Melody, right?” I asked the fifth caller just about to tell me about an amazing new place. Either this was an organized campaign or the meat-shunning set on Long Island is a highly proactive lot. Which wouldn't surprise me, since they've long been neglected by mainstream chefs. What they're finding at Green Melody is an entire staff of professed vegetarians catering to their dietary needs.

Here, the words “duck,” “beef,” “chicken” and “fish” translate into either a soy product or wheat gluten. Some of this food can satisfy even non-vegetarians — although perhaps not to the degree of the real thing.

One never quite knows what an order will bring. For example, barbecue veggie duck turned out to be slices of a soy substance, its alluringly crisp exterior glazed with a red barbecue sauce, the tender center replicating the mouth-feel of duck fat. Barbecue veggie ribs tasted remarkably barbecued and rib-like.

Yet, the “roast duck” that was served on a combination appetizer plate was a slippery disaster, as was the gelatinous soy “chicken,” served alongside much more appealing moo shu rolls (shredded vegetables) and candied walnuts. Another appetizer, celery pancake, was similar to the more familiar scallion pancake. It was savory and crisp. And cold noodles with sesame sauce were identical to what I'd expect from a good Sichuan restaurant.

Both the veggie wonton and hot and sour soup were highly seasoned and enjoyable the occasions I tried them. They were outclassed, though, by the excellent veggie chicken-corn soup, similar to the traditional version but for the substitution of chicken-like nuggets for bits of real poultry. As I reminded myself, every bit of protein is a crucial source of nourishment for the meat-deprived. This I know because both my kids have been in and out of the vegetarian lifestyle.

Some of the meat simulations at Green Melody are quite remarkable. A dish called “red mist” involved layers of bean crepe wrapped around mushrooms, seaweed and vegetables in a construction meant to replicate fish. The seaweed imparted a slightly marine flavor, the textures were quite delicate and the entirety — finished in a spicy red sauce and garnished with sauteed spinach and mango — truly worked.

“You are going to like this,” the waiter said, recommending the evocatively named “orange infusion.” The dish — batter-fried soy chicken with orange chunks and peppers in a citrus sauce — was entirely too sweet. I preferred the still sweet but spicier “General Tso's” — fried “protein nuggets” and vegetables in a glossy sauce. Even better was the subtly smoky “veggie beef” chow fun — wide noodles and vegetables tossed with fried bits of soy substance.

My two favorites were the excellent sauteed Chinese eggplant and a number called “sizzling mushroom infinity”— mushrooms, gingko beans, carrots, jicama and basil served bubbling on a platter with broccoli and bean sprouts. Here were vegetables just being vegetables.

For dessert, I was surprised to find myself liking the exceptionally creamy vegan cheesecake. The showpiece, though, was a platter of fancifully carved fruit, the work of waiter Tung Chen-Yu, who had learned his art at a big hotel in Taipei. It's hard not to be won over by apples and pears impersonating flowers and birds.